I dodge the last couple potholes on the dirt road and finally pull into the parking lot. According to the swell report and the amount of cars around, there are waves. I decide to suit up without having a look. I'm here after all. And I know I want to surf. Whatever the conditions are I'm ready to tackle them.
I slide into my wetsuit which is like putting on a fuzzy pair of pajamas. I'm grateful for my new Ripcurl Flashbomb on days like these. When you can see your breath, wearing a fleece lined wetsuit just seems so right. There's a darkness that welcomes me as I enter the trail. With the dense forest looming overhead not much of this winter light is getting in. There's a mist filtering its way through the trees and I can hear the roar of the ocean off in the distance. I dance my way around the mud puddles and slippery roots, excited to get in the water.
As I approach the sea I notice it's scattered with eager surfers warming up next to their beach fires. Black heads bob off in the distance and as a clean set rolls in they come to life, gliding across the face of the wave in their neoprene tuxedos. The waves look fun and there are only a few people out. I pull up my hood, pry on my gloves and wade over the slippery rocks into the cold water.
As I paddle out I reminisce about my recent warm water encounters. It always takes me a bit to get use to surfing in a wetsuit again. I tend to trip over my booties. My pop ups are slow. And when I paddle it seriously doesn't feel like I'm moving. But I couldn't be happier then I am right now. Surfing the Pacific North west is truly magical. And I feel blessed to call this home.
Here we live in rubber boots, puffies, plaid and toques. We don't complain about the cold. We just dress warmer. The men have beards not because they're cool, but because it's an extra layer. And the women are unicorns (fricking awesome and the real deal). Come see it for yourself.
There's something about being in these remote waters that is nothing like anything I've experienced. Maybe it's the fresh air. The empty breaks, or the friendliness of the community. Whatever it is, I know it's where I want to be.
I filmed this months yoga video just before going for a surf. A little wetsuit yoga action. I suggest doing this video in the comfort of your comfy clothes. You'll be able to move your arms a little easier then when in a wetsuit! There's lots of arms overhead and side bending that goes down. Enjoy!
I honor you. Love Nicole
Find all my past videos here!